Great 1950s Lee Riders. Half Selvedge denim construction with a Scovill Gripper Zipper zip. This particular pair of jeans measured about 28×28, but had been taken in at the waist and down the outer seams of both legs to construct a slimmer fit. The indigo was still dark, a desirable trait for jeans of this age. See my other Lee Riders post for an example of a slightly later pair.
This is the first pair of knickers from Holubar I’ve coma across, though I have seen similar styles from Woolrich. These grey tweed knickers are constructed from an 85% wool, 15% nylon blend. White cotton pockets and waist band. The bottoms have velcro closure for cinching and are lined with nylon on the inside to reduce chaffing. Slack style hook closer with small gauge Talon zipper fly. 2″ high by 3″ wide belt loops. Slack style front pockets with button close back pockets. The seat is double pained for strength.
Approximate Measurements:
20.5″ inseam
35″ waist
31″ from top of waist to bottom
12″ from top of waist to crotch seam
Lee Riders, also known as the 101Z debuted in the 1950s and represent a transition from the company’s work wear history in to more casual, mass appeal wears.
On this particular pair the inside Tag is marked: Lee Riders Sanforized Waist 32 Union Made in the USA. The Button back is stamped: R. Zipper is made by Talon. Lee riveted front and coin pockets. “lazy S” stitched on rear pockets. The “branded” Lee patch is long gone. You’ll notice on Lees, unlike Levi’s the selvedge denim self edged appears on only one side of the outer seam.
As with most items from time and place predating the “throw-away age”, these jeans are well-worn and have been mended multiple times. There’s a bout a 4.5″ x 6″ patch on the right thigh. A 2″ x 3″ patch on the left side below the rear pocket. A hole and repair with red thread on the left knee, a small hole forming below the zipper on the right side front, and a 4″ hole in the left cheek with additional wear below. Some white paint and other darker stains. Round out the patina that only time can create.
Solid built leather knickers by Meyer Schuchardt of Hamburg Germany. Constructed entirely of thick soft split grain leather with the split side facing in. Two pockets at the waist, one zipper closed rear pocket and a knife pocket on the side of the leg.
Levi’s Big E sevledge 501s, no patch. Double sided LEVI’S red tag. Single stitched back pocket, double coin. Top button marked with an 8.
Not exactly sure the year of manufacture on these jeans, but the lack of rivets on the back pocket and double stitched coin pocket suggests these came towards the end of the big E run. These jeans also have a pretty high-rise from the crotch to top of the jean.
These jeans have that great look only obtained with age. Major holes on the right leg with the knee hole spanning almost seam to seam. Left leg is worn heavily from the bottom of the pocket to the knee. Great denim patches of varying sizes on each leg. Another small hole on the back of left leg an upper right side hip. Crotch wear is not too bad, though there is a small hole. Stitching is complete still. Great whiskering around the crotch. Some stains and some dirt that would probably clean off.
Actual measurements:
Inseam 29″
Waist 35.5″
Rise from crotch to top of waist 11.75″ front 15″ back
Top of waist to leg hem 38.25″
Levi’s Big E sevledge 501s, no patch. Double sided LEVI’S red tag. Single stitched back and coin pocket. No markings on button backs. Riveted rear pockets.
These old jeans have a great look to them, but are showing signs of their age. Moderate to heavy wear in the crotch, both front pockets have large holes, about a 3 inch tear in the left knee, lower stitching of the left rear pocket is coming undone (see additional photos link). White staining down the front and back of left leg. Inside rivets have rusted and bled on to pocket lining. Middle three button-fly holes are still intact but are pretty loose when buttoned up.
Diamond quilted nylon throughout. Gerry’s down filling gives you the “warmth without the weight”. All stitching appears to be intact, still full of down, waist band elastic and ankle cuffs in great shape too. 3 snap fly.
Gerry is the iconic label that pioneered a new era in outdoor gear. Founded in the mid 1940s by Gerry Cunningham in Colorado the company was responsible for several outdoor gear innovations and a leader in quality and technology through the 70s and 80s. Earlier labels I’ve seen are similar to this one but list only Boulder; Gerry’s Denver stores didn’t come about till the mid-60s (so I’ve read). Later logos change completely and list only Denver. I would estimate this logo from the Mid-Late 60s
Basecamp Vintage & Archives 