Early 1980s The North Face Gore-Tex Anorak Parka

An age of innovation is evident in this beautifully functional anorak parka. First let’s talk about the fabric choice. While Gore-Tex had been around for over a decade by 1980, commercial use didn’t really begin until 1976. So at the time of this parkas’ manufacture, the breathable, waterproof fabric was still new to consumers and just beginning to overtake old standards like rip-stop nylon, 60/40 and other poly cotton blends as go-to shell materials. The early version of Gore-Tex used here is much thicker than what we know today, and actually has a weight closer to 60/40. The white label found in the hood, an early commercial example (earlier versions were white on black), has what I believe to be a month and year of manufacture on the back side. I have never fully authenticated this theory, but after years of looking at these labels and comparing to catalogs and other resources, it seems to line up. The markings seen on this label are IV/82, or April, 1982. The practice of this dating on the backside of labels also appears to continue in the early black version of the Gore-Tex Label.

This parka featured fully taped seams inside. While most of the glue holding these in place has broken down and the loose strips removed, some remain as evidence of TNF’s commitment to building an advance take on an old design and getting the most out of this revolutionary fabric. The design intentionally avoids seams at the shoulders to further improve the overall waterproof effectiveness.

The closures on this parka get an upgrade in the form of the custom TNF zipper pulls. While The North Face embossed snaps had been around for probably a decade at this point, the proprietary zipper pulls are a new add. If we look at the back of the zipper head, we can see that the zipper is Manufactured by YKK. My guess is that custom zipper pulls offered YKK a great way to expand their business, attract customers and gain the dominance over the industry they have today. Prior to this time, there seemed to be a handful of zipper makers used in outdoor gear such as Talon and Coats and Clark or C&C. I am a little surprised the Fastex cord locks at the hood and waist drawstring are not The North Face labeled, but those were not too far off from this time period.

Maybe one of the biggest differences a vintage TNF fan will notice is the label update. Up to now there have been a few minor variations of the brown logo on white background, but now we’re looking at a white logo on navy background. This parka features only one small sleeve logo I think in an effort to preserve the integrity of the Gore-Tex being used. The Gore-Tex label is carefully tucked away in a seam of the hood drawstring. A material tag inside the jacket is maybe for a reason, brown print on a white tag. Not long after this piece was made The North Face would introduce the Extreme series, which continued this trend of innovative designs and construction for outdoor sports.

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Early-mid 70s Sierra Designs 60/40 Mountain Parka

Early-mid 1970s Sierra Designs 60/40 Mountain Parka

The original 60/40 mountain parka by Sierra Designs. Constructed of the fabric famed for its day as the superior protector against the elements. In a time before Gore-Tex and other such membrane backed fabrics, this blend of Nylon and Cotton loomed with a tight weave was the number one choice of outdoor enthusiast against rain, snow and wind. Prior to its introduction in 1968 most parkas of this style were made of a Polyester and Cotton blend which was much more permeable to the elements. This particular example is an earlier version evident by the sparse labeling and lack of embossed buttons.

The parka is constructed of a Navy Blue shell made entirely of the 60/40 material. The classic construction includes two hip pockets with side entry and Velcro closed top entry. Two bellowed chest pockets also with Velcro closure. A single zip closed back pocket which opens up to the entire upper half of the jacket body. Closure consists of a large gauge YKK zipper with extended pull for ease of use while wearing gloves. Also a snap close-storm flap. Features an integrated hood with offset seams to prevent pooling around the neck and shoulders. Inside the khaki liner is made from 60/40 up top and through out the sleeves and hood to further guard against the elements where it matters most. Then a lighter nylon lighter around the lower allowing the jacket to slide easily over the hips. Nylon cord cinch runs through the hood with leather lace locks. Also a Nylon draw cord at the waist which most likely also had the leather locks at some point, but are now missing.

 

Woolrich 60/40 Mountain Parka

Vintage Woolrich Mountain Parka 60/40

This Woolrich Parka features classic styling composed of materials and craftsman ship that was top of the line in its day. The shell is made of the famed blend 60/40 Cotton/Nylon material popularized by Sierra Designs in the early 70s. This material was most weather proof fabric of its time, before Gore-Tex. Linking is made of a poly cotton blend with Nylon sleeve liner. This ingenious design allows the wearer to slip the jacket on and off over wool shirts and the likes with no binding or bunching. One inside pocket and double breast and hip pockets. Elastic cuff closure, waist and hood draw cords with leather disc cord locks. Main closure comes via a heavy gauge YKK two-way zipper and logo embossed brass tone snaps. The 60/40 has a nice sheen and tends to make separate panels different shades of blue in different light. Not all 60/40 is created equal. Depending on the cotton and nylon fibers used the material can vary in thickness, stiffness and sheen. The Woolrich sheep logo of this time period was recently relaunched and dubbed the “White Collection”. The line is quite nice and does well to honor styles like these.

1st Lead Telluride, Colorado – Parka

This is a great parka from a rare Colorado company. First Lead exists today as an outdoor preparedness and training organization based out of Norwood Colorado, about 30 miles from Telluride. In talking with a spokesperson for First Lead I leaned the training outfit shares no direct relation to the outdoor gear company, but is cut from the same stock of friends and outdoor enthusiasts that started 1st Lead back in the 70s.   

This  piece is  typical in many ways of other parka from this era by other Colorado companies like Holubar and Frostline.  A shell constructed from a cotton blend (most likely 65/35 cotton/poly). Added weight and warmth from an inner layer of the same material. Standard parka trimmings like the yoked shoulder panel and multiple large pockets for storage. Beyond that, this parka has some major difference from its competitors. Maybe the most noticeable is the lack of a hood. It’s not that it got lost, there’s not even snaps or a zipper half to attach one too. The cut of this parka is lot shorter too, ending just below the waist as opposed to mid-thigh length. Another difference is the leather backed snaps. Not exactly sure of the purposes here, I am sure it added durability to the snaps, but it also adds weight. Peaks on the front of part of the shoulder yoke point a little more than others, and there is an absence of chest pockets. Maintains traditional accouterments like the back pocket (closed by a small talon zipper), waist cinch, and Velcro cuffs. 
Can’t wait to find more gear from 1st Lead to see what other kind of things they were doing different so many years ago!

Sierra Designs for Nieman Marcus 60/40 Winter Mountain Parka

Unique co-branded Sierra Designs winter version of their world famous 60/40 mountain parka. Besides the iconic 60/40 label also have NM Supply Company (a Nieman Marcus Collection). Other than the branding this is a Sierra Designs Parka through and through.

60% cotton 40% nylon shell with a beautiful red/green/khaki 70% wool 30% nylon upper lining. Heavy gauge YKK 3/4 length zipper down the front with original long pull. Full length snap closed storm flap.  Two Velcro top close breast pockets, two hip warmer pockets also with Velcro top entry. Drawstring at the hood with leather cord locks. Waistline draw as well without cord lock. Zippered back pocket opens up to the entirety of the lined upper portion.

Measures:
22″ pit to pit
28.5″ base of hood to cuff
21.5″ pit to cuff
30″ top of zip to bottom hem

Class-5 Mountain Parka

This vintage Class-5 parka done in rust features classic styling comprised of materials and craftsman ship that was top of the line in its day. It has clean lines that were innovative for the time.

Cotton blend throughout, most likely 65/35 polyester cotton or similar (no materials tag). Double layer lined in khaki through out. 3 piece hood nylon draw cord. Two-way heavy gauge YKK sleeping bag zipper and snap front closure. Drawstring waist cinch and two snap adjustable cuff. Two top and side entry hip pockets. Left breast zippered pocket. Also, one zippered back pocket.

Class-5 the self-proclaimed Standard of The World was is  California-based outdoor gear company founded in the early 70s by Justus Bauschinger a designer for Trailwise and The North Face. The company was known for their innovative designs and marketing.

Frostline Anorak Parka – Mens Large

Frostline Anorak Parka in Rust and Khaki. This parka is in good shape and is well sewn. Rust colored thread throughout the piece make for nice contrast on the Khaki. Great details around the front zip as the rust is carried up into the khaki. 65/35 Poly/Cotton shell or similar with full Nylon lining give this jacket nice weight. Talon zipper closure throughout.

Features:

  • Zip Kangaroo pocket
  • Separate pass-through front pocket
  • Nylon waist draw lace with spring cord lock
  • Velcro adjustable cuffs
  • 1/4 zip front
  • hood draw lace

The fabric on this parka is clean and in good shape, no holes or stains. Great contrast in colors from the yoke to the lower.

Measures:
24.5″ pit to pit
23″ pit to cuff
34″ neck to cuff
31.5 ” top of zip to hem

For those of you who may not be familiar Frostline was a Colorado based sew-it-yourself outdoor clothing kit company that manufactured a wide variety of products and styles beginning in the late 60s. The products featured innovative designs, materials and constructions and could be had for a fraction of the price of the leading outdoor companies if you knew how to sew (or could bribe someone who could).

Frostline 60/40 Mountain Parka

Classic Frostline Kit 60/40 parka. This is the quintessential parka of the 70s and probably the basis for multiple modern copies.  Good weight  due to the double poly/cotton layer throughout. Green 60/40 shell with a lighter cotton blend interior in Tan. Two-way YKK zipper in black. Velcro closure on the storm flap, hip pockets, breast pockets and wrist cinch. Nylon draw cord through the hood and at the waist. Zippered back game pocket and inner game pocket.

Frostline Kits wear sold as sew-at-home packages during the 70s and early 80s. This allowed people to construct high quality gear at a fraction of the price (if the purchaser was or knew a capable sewer of course). This piece in particular is extremely well sewn.

This parka is still available, please contact for price and details.

Holubar Mountain Parka

Original Holubar Parka from Boulder Colorado. This jacket features classic styling comprised of materials and craftsman ship that was top of the line in its day. It has clean lines that were innovative for the time evident in the pocket placement and yoke.

Cotton blend throughout, probably 60/40 poly cotton or similar. Double layer upper lined in gray. Very functional, well protecting 3 piece hood. Two-way heavy gauge YKK zipper and snap front closure. Drawstring waist cinch and Velcro cuff cinching. This thing also has pockets galore! two hip pockets with two left breast pockets (one zip one Velcro) and one right diagonal zip breast pocket. Also, one zippered back pocket.

This piece of outdoor  equipment history is in good used shape with no holes, rips or obvious stains. Wear on the left front hip pocket flap and storm flap is not a stain but discoloration probably caused by friction from a pack waist strap. There’s also some light spots on the left shoulder back. Other than this the jacket is in great shape.

Size Medium. Measures:
23.75″ pit to pit
26″ pit to cuff
37″ top of zip to Hem (note the front comes up  to cover ones nose when full zipped with the hood on)
32″ neck to cuff

Fostline Kit Anorak Parka

The Colorado sew-it-yourself kit company Frostline churned out dozens upon dozens of patterns throughout the 70s and 80s. This 60/40 Anorak Parka is a great example of how these affordable kits, when constructed properly resulted in beautiful, technical pieces as good as any others on the market at that time.

Features:

  • Zip Kangaroo pocket
  • Separate pass-through front pocket
  • Nylon waist draw lace with spring cord lock
  • Velcro adjustable cuffs
  • 1/4 zip front
  • hood draw lace
  • small gauge TALON zippers throughout