This old LL Bean field jacket takes styling cues from both military and upland style hunting jackets. It features multiple pockets inside and out. A corduroy lined collar. Buttonable chin strap. It has small gauge Talon zippers to close inside pockets as well as a back pocket. It’s made of a medium weight cotton body which is soft and pliable compared to the heavier canvas cotton typically used on field coats.
While Gerry Cunningham lead the “warmth without the weight” down movement here in the states, the Moncler company followed suit on the other side of the Atlantic. The company founded in 1952 enlisted the help of famed explorer Lionel Terray to help with the design of its expedition weight jackets in early 1960s. The result is what you see here.
This particular coat was found with a coyote fur hood liner which was a later add. It had button holes around the edges for attachment to a NB-3 or similar military parka. Given the condition of the fur, which appeared to have been laundered, I decided to remove it and bring the jacket back to original. A solution of baking soda and water was applied to the heavily soiled areas around the collar cuffs and front and left to soak in the tub. You’ll see in the pictures the incredible amount of dirt that was released. The coat was then agitated by hand and rinsed thoroughly.
These coats contain a great deal of down giving them the loft needed to sustain the wearer in arctic conditions. The two rows of snaps allow for an adjustable fit in order to accommodate varying layers of clothing underneath. Zippers are not used as thy can be a hassle in arctic temperatures and a malfunction of one would be a pretty grim reality in the cold. The coat also does not have any pockets which could become filled with snow and create compromised areas for which the cold can make its way in. Candidly speaking, I rather enjoy having accessible pockets in my coat. See my post on the later REI Expedition Down Coat for comparison.
This is an authentic Lion’s Drag Strip Class winner jacket. Mid-1960s era. Jacket is a Buddie Original by Alsup Enterprises of Bellflower, CA. Jacket appears to be garage worn, with some grease spots on right elbow, back of jacket an left elbow. Front has tiny hole near snaps that doesn’t go all the way through. Also some slight thread bare spots. Inside satin is dirty around the bottom third. Small hole on left inside lapel. Right armpit lining is a little blown out as well. Collar is dingy, but in nice shape otherwise. This jacket does have its condition issues. I am selling as is and leaving up to the buyer to either restore or enjoy in its original glory.
Ralph is chain stitched on the left lapel. My research indicates this would have been added by the winner and not included at time of presentation. Closest possible match I can find on a driver would be Ralph Hayes registered in 64 and 65 in a Chrysler Hemi AA/FD dragster driver out of California.
This iconic chore coat design was previously designated 91-J in the labels that preceded it. Prior versions using the older Lee logo where the tail of the L extends underneath both e’s. Besides label and button changes the design remains the same. Triple stitched seams, brass tone hardware and same iconic lines. Maybe the most tale tell sign is the three button cuff. The jacket seen here has some beautiful fading and patch work on the lower tail end.
Discontinued model 422B Filson upland hunting jacket. Base is a waxed cotton Shelter Cloth jacket with blaze orange shoulders up front and game pocket back. Shelter Cloth is Filson’s medium weight fabric allowing for good movement while maintaining weather proof durability. The blaze orange areas are not in shelter cloth, but a cotton blend. Soft collar lining sort of like moleskin. Game pocket is fully lined with Shelter Cloth.
Older model N-B3 “Snorkle” parka . From what’s left of the black label, it appears to be made by Skyline. Originally used at Ellsworth AFB near Rapid City, SD.
It has wool lined pockets and a real fur snorkel hood (though patches of the fur are missing). Has reflective strips (see odd color strips on front and back) sewed on. Not sure if this was added at the base or later for civilian use. I’ve come across photos of other parkas with the same reflective addition, so I am assuming the was added on base to make ground crew more visible at night. Conmar zipper at main closure and on the sleeve pocket. This particular parka is in pretty rough shape and has some repairs.
Vintage Sport Chief gaberdine jacket by Chief Apparel of NY. Gabardine, an early water and wind repellant fabric gets it’s qualities from the manner in which it is woven. It remained a popular option until the development of more sophisticated weatherproof materials made of nylon. This jacket features Leather shoulders, pocket accents and button covers. Front closure is attained by a Conmar locking zipper. The liner features the MG automobile company logo. Not sure if this was a promotional piece, or the Chief Apparel designers were just fans.